APPAREL

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

When you think of denim jeans, you think of American history. The cowboys and Marlboro man. Steve McQueen on a motorcycle. Woodstock and the peace seeking hippies starting a revolution. Style icons like Jane Birkin sashaying in the streets with a picnic basket in her boyfriends jeans. You think of rock moments like Guns N Roses and Axel swaying to Sweet Child o Mine. You think of fashion moments like Lanvin + Acne.

What other style in fashion has broken so many barriers, defined generations and transformed while staying the same than the denim jean.

The roots of blue jeans go back to a simple pair of 501’s crafted for workwear by Levi Strauss during the California Gold Rush. The miners wore cotton canvas pants and overalls but they tended to chafe and wear too quickly. Levi Strauss found  a sturdier heavy blue cotton twill from Nîmes France, called Serge de Nîmes, later nicknamed denim. He added rivets on the pockets and created the stitch design adopted by many denim makers to this day. He patented the process in 1873 and voila the blue jean was born. 

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Original Miner’s Jean photo I shot at the Levi’s archive in San Francisco

In the 30’s, real life cattle ranchers and cowboys were wearing denim as workwear for their day to day chores. It was around this time that denim started it’s rise as an American icon debuting on the silver screen in Western films.

Denim, like the jumpsuit has also had feisty moments considered to be gutsy rebel style.

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Original 1940’s Levi’s Trucker Jacket I shot at the Levi’s archive in San Francisco

In the 50’s denim took a turn from being reserved for workwear to the ultimate statement against conformity. Think about James Dean in the 1950’s rocking his denim in Rebel Without a Cause.

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James Dean Rebel Without a Cause 1950’s

Considered shocking for the time, denim was banned from schools, movie theaters and restaurants. This only fueled the appeal and sealed the allure for denim as the supreme rebel look.

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Marilyn Monroe wearing Levi’s jeans 1950’s

In the 50’s it was still uncommon for women to wear jeans. I love denim, but it’s not the first thing that comes to mind when I think of what to wear to workout. The eternal rebel Marilyn Monroe made Levi’s her gear of choice to lift weights in the 50’s.

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Brigitte Bardot wearing denim 1960s

In the 60’s denim was still predominately available only in the US , but who could forget Brigitte Bardot’s timeless style.

and Jane Birkin

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Jane Birkin wearing denim

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“Denim was the flag of the young generation in the 70`s.

As we were dreaming about a new world, denim was our uniform.”

Adriano Goldschmied

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In the 70’s, Denim was a vanguard of the sexual revolution with body conscious styling and looks made to highlight the curves of a woman’s body. Designer Gloria Vanderbilt created the first designer stretch denim in 1976.

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First stretch jeans Gloria Vanderbilt 1970’s

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Chic Jeans 1970’s

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Farrah Fawcett wearing jeans 1970’s

__________________________

“Jeans are Sex”.

Calvin Klein’s response to his Brooke Shields ad in 1980

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In 1980 Calvin Klein featured a controversial, racy ad with Brooke Shields. At the time the young age of 15, and the amount of skin was a taboo.

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Brooke Shields in Calvin Klein jeans 1980s

 

Denim is transformative and can make a woman feel like the sexy sirens in the Guess ad campaigns.

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Claudia Schiffer for Guess by Ellen von Unwerth 1980’s

Of course, Rock and Roll has held a special place for denim, one of the most iconic being the Born in the USA album.

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Bruce Springsteen born in the USA

 

Today people scour the world looking for the most authentic denim. Luxury denim mills in Japan and Europe and a few in the US are weaving on the original vintage selvage looms that were once buzzing full speed in the states. You can find denim from premium brands like Goldsign, Acne, Citizens for Humanity, Naked and Famous,     G-Star, Nudie and many others.

__________________________

“I wish I had invented Blue Jeans”.

Yves Saint Laurent

__________________________

 The allure feels timeless as we see sexy looks strutting down the catwalks of brands like Miu Miu, Philip Lim and Isabel Marant.

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Miu Miu Spring 13 image

We actually have more in common with the original denim wearers than we might think. Like the miners, we love our denim more over time, and feel they get better with fading and wear! How is it that one humble jean can always look so current?

What’s your favorite way to wear denim?

*All images from Pinterest with the exception of the shots at Levi’s by Carly Tati

 

 

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